Off the Beaten Track

Trashigang

The pretty, lively town of Trashigang is a good jumping-off point to visit the kingdom’s wild east. Few travellers make it here but, as long as you’re happy to leave behind the relative comforts of Thimphu and Paro, exploring this neck of the woods can have its rewards.

Drinking is big in Trashigang. On the street leading toward the dzong, look for the sign with a picture of a cowboy on one side and a local artist’s peculiar adaptation of Donald Duck on the other. This is where you’ll find the Gyeltshen Bar, a popular place to sample the local arra and soak up the atmosphere (in that order). Villagers come to town on holy days, which occur on the first, 10th and 15th of the Bhutanese month. After selling their produce they get stuck into the arra and paint the town an unforgettable Bhutanese shade of red.

Be warned! Local Jeep drivers say that it takes some 17 hours or more to get from Trashigang to Thimphu, a 600km (192mi) endurance trial up hill and down dale

Off the Beaten Track

Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary

This 650 sq km (253 sq mi) sanctuary, in the easternmost part of the kingdom, is unique as the only reserve in the world created specifically to protect the habitat of the yeti, known in Bhutan as the migoi (strong man).

The migoi differs from yetis found (or not) in other Himalayan regions. Its body is covered in hair that may be anything from reddish-brown to black, but its face is hairless. Another feature which helps the elusive creature escape detection is that many have their feet backwards, confusing possible trackers.

The village of Sakteng is the place you need to be to jump into the wilderness of the Wildlife Sanctuary. Head to Trashigang, and then drive the extra 60km (37mi) to the border of eastern Bhutan, a total distance from Thimphu of 660km (211mi).

Attractions of Bhutan

Phobjika Valley

Phobjika is a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. It borders the Black Mountains National Park which is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country because of the large flock of rare, endangered black-necked cranes that winter there.

These birds have a special place in Bhutanese folklore and you can learn more about the cranes at the Crane Observation and Education Centre and view their roosting place. It’s an awesome spectacle at dusk when all the birds from the valley congregate for the night.

Attractions of Bhutan

Paro

If you come to Bhutan by air, you’ll probably land in Paro. Western Bhutan is the heartland of the Drukpa people and you will be confronted with the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom and you will immediately realise you are well off the beaten track of world tourism.

The town of Paro lies in the centre of the rich, fertile Paro valley, with beautiful landscapes, scenic villages and historic buildings all within a few kilometres. Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture in the National Museum close to the town centre - the building itself was completed in 1656.

Attractions of Bhutan

Bumthang

It sounds like a blues bar in America’s deep south, but Bumthang is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient and precious Buddhist sites. Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one, Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces.

Jakar, at the foot of the Choskhor valley, is likely to be your base. Jakar Dzong, founded in 1549, is the largest in Bhutan. Further along Choskhor valley, the temple of Jampa Lhakhang was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom’s most spectacular festivals, the Jampa Lhakhang Drup, in October.

Off the Beaten Track

Laya

Laya, in the far northwest of Bhutan, is one of the kingdom’s highest villages at 3700m (12,136ft), under the peak of the Tsenda Gang. A group known as Layap, comprising about 800 people with their own language, customs and dress, lives here. The village women in particular strike dashing figures.

They wear peculiar conical bamboo hats with a bamboo spike at the top, held on by beaded bands. They dress in black woollen jackets with silver trim and a long woollen skirt striped in natural earth colours. They adorn themselves with lots of silver jewellery, which often includes an array of teaspoons. The women frequently stage an evening cultural show which consists of a lot of circle dancing accompanied by traditional Layap folk songs. (more…)

Attractions of Bhutan

Thimphu

Thimphu lies in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu Chhu river, and it is the only world capital without traffic lights. Despite recent development, Thimphu retains its charming, medieval feel thanks to its brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades.

Thimphu is a cornucopia of Bhutanese culture. Dominating the horizon is the imposing Trashi Chhoe Dzong(Fortress of the Glorious Religion) which was completely renovated in the 1960s to become the symbol of the capital. It now houses the offices of the king and the central monk body.