Off the Beaten Track of Cambodia

Udong

Udong, 40km (25mi) north of Phnom Penh, was the capital of Cambodia between 1618 and 1866. It’s generally very quiet here, and you’ll often have the town’s stupas to yourself (along with picnickers at weekends). You’ll find the ruins sprinkled across two ridges.

The smaller has two ruined buildings, several stupas and the Ta San Mosque (or at least its remains; all that’s left is the building’s bullet-pocked walls). A 16th-century treasure is supposed to be hidden below the larger ridge, which is topped by the scattered ruins of a large vihara (sanctuary) and Buddha statue, blown up by the Khmer Rouge in 1977. Surrounding the ruins are some still-intact smaller viharas, stupas and Buddhas. At the base of the ridge is a memorial to victims of Pol Pot, containing the bones of people buried in the 100 or so mass graves found in the area.

Attractions of Cambodia

Temples of Angkor

The celebrated temples of Angkor are Cambodia’s greatest tourist attraction. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre, and were built between the 9th and 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. The three most magnificent temples are Bayon, Ta Prohm and the immense Angkor Wat.

Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples were gradually cloaked by forest. The site became the source of scholarly interest in the late-19th century after the publication of Voyage à Siam et dans le Cambodge by French naturalist Henri Mouhot. Efforts were undertaken to clear away the jungle vegetation that threatened to completely destroy the monuments, and restoration continues today.

Attractions of Cambodia

Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville’s beaches aren’t a patch on Thailand’s, and sights are few and far between, but as Cambodia’s only maritime port it makes a reasonable base for exploring the south coast and nearby Ream National Park. Four beaches ring the headland - Ochheuteal, Sokha, Independence and Victory - and the fishing port offers the odd photo opportunity at sunrise or sunset. There are a few dive operations in town, plus a waterfall an hour’s drive away that’s swimmable. The sleepy colonial riverside resort of Kampot isn’t too far away, with the strangely skeletal remains of seaside Kep further along. Sihanoukville is 232km (143mi) from the capital, and is served by regular buses.

Attractions of Cambodia

Battambang

Cambodia’s second-largest city is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Battambang used to be off the map for road travellers, but facilities have been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples and villages.

It’s a secondary hub on the overland route between Thailand and Vietnam. The network of charming old French shop houses clustered along the riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a number of wats scattered around the town. The small museum has a collection of Angkorian-era artefacts, and beyond the town there’s a number of hilltop temples, yet more wats and a large lake. Battambang is a pretty bumpy 293km (181mi) bus or share-taxi ride from the capital.

Off the Beaten Track of Cambodia

Kompong Luong

Ten thousand people live in this permanently floating town on Tonlé Sap lake. Houses, schools, karaoke bars and restaurants float atop boat-based foundations, rising and falling up to 5km (3mi) with the tide. Like the Floating Village of Chong Kneas on the northern stretch of the lake, the population is mainly Vietnamese. There’s not much to do, and nowhere to stay, so it’s a matter of soaking up the atmosphere of life on the water, with an iced coffee or beer in hand. Kompong Luong is near the southern reaches of Tonlé Sap lake in Pursat province, around 40km (24mi) northeast of Pursat. (more…)

Attractions of Cambodia

Phnom Penh

Cambodia’s capital retains an undeniable charm despite its tumultuous and often violent past. The crumbling colonial architecture makes an attractive backdrop to bustling streetside cafes and the redeveloped riverfront precinct - a particularly lively part of town on Friday and Saturday nights.

The city has several impressive wats (temple-monasteries), including Wat Ounalom, Wat Phnom and Wat Moha Montrei. Pride of place goes to the spectacular Silver Pagoda, one of the few places in Cambodia where artefacts embodying the richness of Khmer culture were preserved by the Khmer Rouge.