Nicosia, known locally as Lefkosia (Greek: ?e???s?a; see also List of traditional Greek place names) or Lefkosa (Turkish), is the capital and largest city of Cyprus. Nicosia is located at 35°10′ north, 33°21′ east (35.1667, 33.35). [1] There have recently been some moves to use the Greek name Lefkosia as the official English name, but this has not been generally accepted.

Located on the Pedieos river and situated roughly in the centre of the island, it is the seat of government as well as the main business centre. Nicosia is the center of an administrative district, after the fall of the Berlin Wall and it is currently the only divided capital city in the world, with the northern (Turkish) and southern (Greek) portions divided by the “Green Line”, a demilitarized zone maintained by the United Nations, although unlike Cold War East and West Berlin, few use the terms North Nicosia and South Nicosia.The 1974 Turkish invasion and occupation of 36 % of the island’s territory literally cut the capital in half. The Turkish Cypriots use it as capital of occupied area, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, which is a state not recognized by any country in the world, except Turkey

It has a population of 206.200 (end of 2001) in the sector controlled by the government of the Republic of Cyprus,, which means that over a quarter of the Republic’s people live in the capital. At least three quarters of the city population live in the ‘Greek’ part, which is controlled by the Republic of Cyprus.

Nicosia is a modern, dynamic capital with lots of shops, restaurants and entertainment The city is a trade center and manufactures textiles, leather, pottery, plastic, and other products. Copper mines are nearby. Nicosia is the seat of the University of Cyprus (UCY).

Although the city has been destroyed more than once by conquerors, there are still enough leftovers to enjoy the past.History is most strikingly experienced at the Venetian city wall, which was constructed between 1567 and 1570. The 4,5 metres thick wall used to have three gates. The Famagusta gate is now used as cultural centre. Some other parts of the wall contain administration offices. The historical centre is clearly present inside the walls, but the modern city has grown beyond.

The heart of the city is Eleftheria (Freedom) Square, with the city hall, the post office and the library. Adjacent Ledra street leads to the most lively part of the old city with narrow streets, boutiques, and cafes. Agia Fanomereni is a church built in 1872, constructed with the remains of an old castle and a convent. Here rest the Archbishop and the other Bishops who were killed by the Turks during the 1821 revolt. The Palace of the Archbishop can be found at Arkhiepiskopos Kyprianos Square. Although it seems very old, it’s a wonderful imitation of typical Venetian style, built in 1956. Next to the palace is the late gothic Saint John cathedral (1665) with picturesque frescos.

Nicosia is also known for its fine museums. The Archbishop’s Palace contains a Byzantine museum where you can admire religious icons. Other interesting museums include the Folk Art Museum, National Struggle Museum (witnessing the rebellion against the British administration in the 1950s), Cyprus Museum, and the Handicrafts Centre.

As of 2005, Mihalis Zambelas is the mayor of Nicosia, however in the north part of the town, in the sector of the de facto TRNC, the mayor is Kutlay Erk.

History

The Greek name of Nicosia, “Lefkosia”, probably comes from Lefkos, son of Ptolemy I of Egypt, who rebuilt the city in the 3rd century B.C.. Another probability is that the name originated from the white poplar (lefki) which was abundant in the bed of the city’s river. The city also bore the name of Lefkothea - the white goddess.Still known as Lefkosia, the city became the island’s capital in the 11th century. It had grown in importance because of threats to the coastal cities Paphos and Salamis, which made many people flee to the centrally located Lefkosia.

Known as Ledra or Ledrae in ancient times, the city was the seat of the Lusignan kings of Cyprus since 1192, became a Venetian possession in 1489, and fell to the Turks in 1571.

The name “Nicosia” appeared towards the end of the 12th century, when the city was owned and run by the Knights Templar. In fact, it is this period of Frankish (Luisignan) rule that gave rise to the exonym Nicosia. The Crusaders conquerors could not, or did not care, to pronounce the name Kallinikisis, as the city was called at that time, and they tended to say “Nikosia”, which they spelled as “Nicosia”. In this era of the Franks, the city expanded culturally, while under the Lusignans in the 15th and 16th centuries, the capital saw the erection of a number of palaces, mansions, churches and monasteries.

The Ottoman siege of 1570 caused 20,000 casualties, while the 19th century also observed tragedy. The Turks eliminated the 1821 revolt with bloodshed, cholera hit the city in 1835, and fire destroyed large parts of Nicosia in 1857. The British gained control over the island in 1878, leaving Nicosia the colony’s capital.

Nicosia was the scene of extreme violence in the period just prior to Cypriot independence in 1960. Since the Greek supported coup and Turkish invasion which followed it in 1974, part of the city’s northern sector has been inside the boundary of a United Nations buffer zone

The tombs of the Lusignan kings are in the former Cathedral of St. Sophia, now a mosque in the northern sector. The core of the city also has well-preserved Venetian fortifications, built in the 16th century, which encircle the old, medieval part of the city.

In February 2003, Greek Cypriots elected Tassos Papadopoulos, leader of the center right Democratic Party, as president of the Republic of Cyprus. President Papadopoulos was supported by a broad coalition of parties ranging from his own Democratic Party to communist AKEL. None of the Greek Cypriot parties has been able to elect a president by itself or dominate the 56-seat House of Representatives. The 165,000 Greek Cypriot refugees from the area now administered by Turkish Cypriots are a potent political force, along with the independent Orthodox Church of Cyprus, which has some influence in temporal as well as ecclesiastical matters.

“TRNC President” Mehmet Ali Talat was elected in April 2005, replacing long-time nationalist leader Rauf Denktash. Talat’s political rise was due largely to his support of the UN Settlement Plan for Cyprus (the “Annan Plan”), which Rauf Denktash opposed, but which was supported by a majority of Turkish Cypriots in a 2004 referendum. Talat’s pro-settlement, pro-EU political allies in the Republican Turkish Party (CTP) hold 24 of the 50 seats in the “TRNC National Assembly.” In March 2005, the CTP agreed to form a coalition “government” with the 5-seat Democrat Party (DP) under the leadership of CTP “Prime Minister” Ferdi Sabit Soyer and DP “Deputy Prime Minister/Foreign Minister” Serdar Denktash.

The first UN-sponsored negotiations to develop institutional arrangements acceptable to both communities began in 1968; several sets of negotiations and other initiatives followed. Turkish Cypriots focus on bizonality, security guarantees, and political equality between the two communities. Greek Cypriots emphasize the rights of movement, property, settlement, and the return of territory. Turkish Cypriots favor a loose grouping of two nearly autonomous societies living side by side with limited contact. Greek Cypriots envision a more integrated structure.

Direct talks began in January 2002 between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot community leaders under the auspices of the UN Secretary General, Mr. Kofi Annan.

In November 2002, Secretary General Annan released a comprehensive plan for the resolution of the Cyprus issue. This plan was revised in early December. In the lead up to the December 2002 EU Copenhagen Summit, intensive efforts were made to gain both sides’ signatures to the document prior to a decision on the island’s EU membership. Neither side agreed to sign. The EU invited the Republic of Cyprus to join on December 16.

Following the Copenhagen Summit, the UN continued dialogue with the two sides with the goal of reaching a settlement prior to Cyprus’s signature of the EU accession treaty on April 16, 2003. A third version of the Annan plan was put to the parties in February 2003. That same month the Secretary General again visited the island and asked that both leaders agree to put the plan to referendum in their respective communities. Also in February 2003, Tassos Papadopoulos was elected as the fifth president of the Republic of Cyprus. On March 10, 2003, this phase of talks collapsed in The Hague when the then-leader of the Turkish Cypriots, Rauf Denktash, told the Secretary General he would not put the Annan plan to referendum.

On April 23, 2003, Mr. Denktash relaxed many restrictions on individuals crossing between the two communities, including abolishing all crossing fees. Since then, the relaxed crossing procedures have led to relatively unimpeded bicommunal contact for the first time since 1974. Since April 2003 there have been over 7,000,000 buffer zone crossings in both directions. Greek Cypriots are currently required to present identity documents at the checkpoints along the buffer zone, something many are reluctant to do. Greek Cypriots are permitted to drive their personal vehicles in the Turkish Cypriot community, provided they first obtain a policy from an insurance provider in the north. Turkish Cypriots are permitted to cross into the government-controlled area upon presentation of a Turkish Cypriot ID card. Turkish Cypriots must also obtain car insurance from an insurer in the south to drive their personal vehicles in the government-controlled area.

Until recently, visitors choosing to arrive at non-designated airports and seaports in the north were not allowed to cross the United Nations-patrolled “green line” to the government-controlled areas in the south. In June of 2004, however, Cypriot authorities implemented new EU-related crossing regulations that allowed Americans (and citizens of most other countries) to cross freely regardless of their port of entry into Cyprus. Visitors arriving in the south are normally able to cross the green line without hindrance, although on occasion difficulties are encountered at both the Greek-Cypriot and Turkish-Cypriot checkpoints. Policy and procedures regarding such travel are subject to change. More information on current procedures may be obtained at the UN “Buffer Zone” Ledra Palace checkpoint in Nicosia.

In February 2004, President Papadopoulos and Rauf Denktash accepted the Secretary General’s invitation to resume negotiations on a settlement on the basis of the Annan plan. After a meeting with the Secretary General in New York, talks began in Cyprus on February 19. The two community leaders met nearly every day for negotiations facilitated by the Secretary General’s Special Representative for Cyprus, Mr. Alvaro De Soto. In addition, numerous technical committees and subcommittees met in parallel in an effort to resolve outstanding issues and complete the legislative framework. Beginning on March 24, the talks moved to Burgenstock, Switzerland with the participation of the Prime Ministers and Foreign Ministers of Greece and Turkey. Negotiations concluded on March 31, and the Secretary General presented the two sides with a final settlement package.

Most Turkish Cypriot and Turkish leaders supported the agreement, but most Greek Cypriot leaders, including President Papadopoulos, urged the Greek Cypriot public to reject the settlement. On April 24, after a three-week campaign marked by accusations that the government of Cyprus was unfairly manipulating public opinion, Cypriots on both sides of the Green Line went to the polls in parallel and simultaneous referenda. Turkish Cypriots voted by a large majority (65% “yes” to 35% “no”) to accept the solution. Greek Cypriots, however, voted by an even larger margin (76% “no” to 24% “yes”) to reject it.

Cyprus entered the European Union on May 1, 2004 as a divided island. The Secretary General’s Good Offices Mission is suspended.

Principal Government Officials
President of the Republic–Tassos Papadopoulos
Foreign Minister–George Iacovou
Minister of Commerce, Industry, and Tourism–Yiorgos Lillikas
Minister of Finance–Iacovos Keravnos
Minister of Interior–Andreas Christou
Minister of Communications and Works–Haris Thrasou
Minister of Justice and Public Order–Doros Theodorou
Ambassador to the United States–Euripides L. Evriviades
Permanent Representative to the United Nations–Andreas Mavroyiannis

Cyprus maintains an embassy in the United States at 2211 R Street NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202-462-5772) and a Consulate General in New York City. Cyprus also maintains a trade center at 13 East 40th Street, New York, NY 10016 (tel. 212-686-6016). Turkish Cypriots maintain offices in Washington (tel. 202-887-6198) and at the Republic of Turkey’s Mission to the United Nations.

Since 1974, Cyprus has been divided de facto into the government-controlled two-thirds of the island and the Turkish Cypriot one-third. The Government of the Republic of Cyprus has continued as the internationally recognized authority; in practice, its authority extends only to the government-controlled areas.

The 1960 Cypriot Constitution provided for a presidential system of government with independent executive, legislative, and judicial branches, as well as a complex system of checks and balances, including a weighted power-sharing ratio designed to protect the interests of the Turkish Cypriots. The executive, for example, was headed by a Greek Cypriot president and a Turkish Cypriot vice president, elected by their respective communities for 5-year terms, and each possessing a right of veto over certain types of legislation and executive decisions.

Following the 1974 hostilities, the Turkish Cypriots set up their own institutions in the area they administered with an elected president and a prime minister responsible to the National Assembly exercising joint executive powers. In 1983, the Turkish Cypriots declared an independent Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (”TRNC”). Only Turkey recognizes the “TRNC”.

Two mountain ranges traverse the island from east to west; the highest point is Mt. Olympus (6,406 ft/1,953 m), in the southwest. Between the ranges lies a wide plain, the chief agricultural region. Over three quarters of the population is Greek, generally occupies the southern sector of the country, and belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church. Less than 20% of the people are Turkish Muslims, mainly living in the northern region. Religious minorities include the Maronites and Armenian Orthodox. In addition to Greek and Turkish, English is also widely spoken.

Cyprus has a well-developed system of primary and secondary education offering both public and private education. Unlike in other countries, state schools are generally seen as equivalent or better in quality of education than private sector institutions.

The majority of Cypriots receive their higher education at Greek, British, Turkish, EU and US universities, while there are also sizeable emigrant communities in the United Kingdom and Australia. Private colleges and state-supported universities have been developed by both the Turkish and Greek communities.

According to the 1960 constitution, education is under the control of the two communities (the communal chambers). State education was based on nationalisation of existing community supported schools from the colonial period. Thus following 1974 the Cypriot system follows the Greek system in the south, in other words providing their students with an apolytirion, and the Turkish system in the north. A large number of students after sitting for A-levels and/or SATs study abroad, mainly in English speaking countries such as the US or UK, but also in other European destinations such as France and Germany. Traditionally the left wing party AKEL provided scholarships for its members to study in Eastern Europe. Eastern European countries, especially Bulgaria and Hungary, are still popular destinations for students .

Cyprus, a full EU member since May 1, 2004, has a liberal climate for investments. On October 1, 2004, the Government of Cyprus lifted most investment restrictions concerning non-EU residents, completing earlier reforms (introduced in January 2000) concerning EU investors. Through this decision, the Government of Cyprus has lifted most capital restrictions and limits on foreign equity participation/ownership, thereby granting national treatment to foreign investors. Non-EU investors (both natural and legal persons) may now invest freely in Cyprus in most sectors, either directly or indirectly (including all types of portfolio investment in the Cyprus Stock Exchange). The only exceptions concern primarily the acquisition of property and, to a lesser extent, restrictions on investment in the sectors of tertiary education and mass media.

The inflow of approved foreign direct investment reached USD 1.22 billion in 2004, compared with USD 1.00 billion in 2003, and USD 1.06 billion in 2002. The sectoral allocation of this investment in 2003 was as follows: manufacturing 0.8%; construction 0.8%; trading 14.6%; hotels and restaurants 0.2%; transport and communications 11.1%; financial intermediation 24.7%; real estate and business 41.0%, other services 6.7%. In terms of geographical origin, the majority of new investments in 2003 (58.1% of total value) originated from the EU; 31.1% originated from other European countries; 4.6% from the United States of America; and the remaining 6.2% from various other countries.

The gradual liberalization of foreign direct investment regulations has made Cyprus progressively a more attractive destination for U.S. investors in recent years. Traditionally, U.S. direct investment in Cyprus consisted of relatively minor projects, mostly by Greek-Cypriot expatriates. New investment projects with U.S. involvement in 2003-2004 included a well-known U.S. coffee retailing franchise, an equestrian center, a hair products manufacturing unit, a firm trading in health and natural foodstuffs, and a financial services company. It should also be noted that the abolition of restrictions on investment originating from the EU allows U.S. investors to benefit as well, provided they work through subsidiaries in the EU.

Cyprus has good business and financial services, modern telecommunications, an educated labor force, good airline connections, a sound legal system, and a low crime rate. Cyprus’s geographic location, tax incentives and modern infrastructure also make it a natural hub for companies looking to do business with the Middle East, Eastern Europe, the former Soviet Union, the European Union, and North Africa. As a result, Cyprus has developed into an important regional and international business center.

Economic affairs in Cyprus are dominated by the division of the country into the southern (Greek) area controlled by the Cyprus Government and the northern Turkish Cypriot-administered area.

The Greek Cypriot economy is prosperous but highly susceptible to external shocks. Erratic growth rates in the 1990s reflect the economy’s vulnerability to swings in tourist arrivals, caused by political instability on the island and fluctuations in economic conditions in Western Europe. Economic policy in the south in the years leading up to 2005 focused on meeting the criteria for admission to the European Union. As in the Turkish sector, water shortage is a growing problem, and several desalination plants are planned.

Recently, oil has been discovered in the sea South of Cyprus (between Cyprus and Egypt) and talks are under way with Egypt to reach an agreement as to the exploitation of these resources. The level of the oil field in terms of production (barrels per day) that the two countries will be able to produce is still a matter of speculation.

The Turkish Cypriot economy has about one-fifth the population and one-third the per capita GDP of the south. Because it is recognised only by Turkey, it has had much difficulty arranging foreign financing, and foreign firms have hesitated to invest there. The economy remains heavily dependent on agriculture and government service, which together employ about half of the work force. Moreover, the small, vulnerable economy has suffered because the Turkish lira is legal tender. To compensate for the economy’s weakness, Turkey provides direct and indirect aid to tourism, education, industry, etc.

Eventual adoption of the euro currency is required of all new countries joining the European Union, and the Cyprus government currently intends to adopt the currency on 1 January 2008.

The name Cyprus has a somewhat uncertain etymology. One possible suggestion is that it comes from the Greek word “??p???ss?? (kypa’rissos)” meaning “cypress tree”; however, it seems more likely to stem from some non-Indo-European word for copper, most probably from the Sumerian “kabar” (copper), due to the large deposits of copper ore found on the island. Through overseas trade, the island has already given its name to the Classical Latin word for the metal, which appears in the phrase aes Cyprium , “metal of Cyprus”, later shortened to cuprum. From there the word passed into European languages as “copper” in the English language, “cuivre” in French, “Kupfer” in German and “cobre” in Portuguese and in Spanish.

Cyprus is geographically in Western Asia (or the Near East), though politically and culturally it is considered as being in Europe. Historically, Cyprus has always been a bridgehead between Europe, Asia and Africa, with interchanging periods of Levantine, Anatolian, Greek and British influences.

Cyprus was originally settled in prehistory from the Levant. There are numerous traces of the Stone Age, going back to the aceramic Neolithic. Greek and Phœnician settlements belong to the Iron Age, and the development of towns, copper mining and seafaring trade can be traced to the Bronze Age. The influence of the Mycenæan culture of Greece seems to have reached the island around 1600 B.C., when local copies of Mycenæan pottery were produced, although some scholars argue that this was the result of trade and that Mycenæan settlement did not begin in earnest for another four hundred years. The island was invaded by Pharaoh Thothmes III of Egypt about 1500 BC, and was forced to pay tribute. This migration may be remembered in legends about Greek heroes who settled in Cyprus after the Trojan War. Cypriot culture remained a mixture of Mycenæan, Egyptian, Levantine and Anatolian elements.

In the 8th century BC, Cyprus became a part of the Assyrian Empire. At that time, Cyprus was ruled by eleven kings, clients of the Assyrians. In the 6th century B.C., Amasis of Egypt conquered Cyprus, which soon fell under the rule of the Persians when Cambyses conquered Egypt. Under the Persian Empire, Cyprus formed part of the Fifth Satrapy and, in addition to tribute, it had to supply the Persians with ships and crews, drawing on its seafaring culture. When the Ionian Greeks revolted against Persia in 499 BC the Cypriot kings, except for Amathus, joined at the instigation of Onesilaos, brother of the king of Salamis, whom he dethroned for not wanting to fight for independence. The Persians reacted quickly sending a considerable force against Onesilaos and crushed the Ionian rebellion.

After defeat by the Persians, the Greeks mounted various expeditions against Persian rule in Cyprus, but no effort resulted in better than temporary results. After the victory of Alexander the Great over the Persians at Issos, the Cypriot kings went over to the Macedonians at Tyre. Later, the Ptolemaic rulers of Egypt controlled the island, until it was annexed by Rome in 58-57 BC. During the Roman period, Cyprus was visited by the Apostles Paul and Barnabas–who came to the island with Mark the Evangelist at the outset of their first missionary journey in 45 AD. After their arrival at Salamis they proceeded to Paphos where they converted the Roman Governor Sergius Paulus to Christianity. This is the origin of the claim that Cyprus became the first territory in the world to be governed by a christian ruler.